Tuesday, January 27, 2015

New Pads installed!

Installing new beater pads.
My front yard - blizzard "Juno"
Over the next week I will be sharing images and tales from the recent additions to my "new" 40" B5 loom. This is the perfect activity while I have electricity, internet, heat and am stuck inside ~ we are in the midst of Blizzard "Juno".

This post will share how to install new beater pads and new stop bar pads.

Beater pads - I put the beater flat on the floor to do this project. Much easier in all respects! Then remove the old pads using a small hammer and maybe a pair of pliers. Be sure to get all of the old pads off.  The using your muscle and good hammer nail the new pads in place. I used a small 1" brad/nail. The nail goes in with a bit of muscle - the wood is a good maple - and so it resists being nailed into. I admit I bent a few nails before I got it right!

Lift harnesses to remove old pads.
 Stop Bar Pads - These are the pads that go under the jacks - they are critical to absorb the whomp of the jacks when the fall after each treadling. First lift all the harnesses and insert a sturdy dowel under the jacks to expose the pads. Pry out the old pads. Be sure to remove all of the old pad - they often are crumbly and cracked and might need a scraper to remove the little bits. Mine were so old and dry they just popped off. 
Remove the old stop bar pads.

Now put a little bit of white glue (Elmer's) on the new pad. Pop it in place. Drop the harnesses down. The weight of the jacks will hold the pad in place until the glue sets. If you are like me you might need to clean up the extra over flow of glue.

Please read the additional notes from a reader below - quite good info!
Apply a little white glue.

Drop the harnesses and the jacks will hold the pad down.



Here are some fantastic tips from an amazing engineer/husband of a weaver "The blocks on my B5 are held in place with two screws, one on either side, which makes them easy to remove.  It is much easier to replace the pads if you remove the blocks first.  You can clamp the pads between the blocks to provide complete, uniform pressure."

"The blocks on mine were twisted so the sides were vertical and the jacks only hit on the corner of the pad.  From the condition of the pads, the blocks had been that way for a very long time.  You may want to add that the blocks should be adjusted so the top is parallel with the bottom of the jacks."

"The blocks are narrower on the end closest to the cloth beam.  Maybe you want to let people know if they take them out, they should make sure they put them back the correct way.  As always, if another owner has worked on the loom, the blocks could be backwards already."

"There are much better ways to attach the pads to the blocks.  Spray contact cement and Shoe Goo are two of them. While Elmer's glue is good for a lot of things, in this case, it will come loose in as little as two years, depending on temperature, humidity and use.  The pads stick to the blocks better if you clean the pads with alcohol (your choice of flavors)."


Thanks Steve! So there are some better ideas than mine!

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